The Four Horsemen

The editorial take

The Four Horsemen no longer needs natural-wine fashion to justify itself. The current 662-bottle list supplies harder proof: a $125 median, fair independent markup assessment, proper storage and stems, roughly 20-30 rotating glasses, and regional depth that permits real comparison. Loire is especially persuasive. Thomas Batardière Amor Fatì 2024 at $88 and Jean-Christophe Garnier Bézigon 2024 at $80 offer more informative drinking than a prestige bottle selected for scarcity. Champagne extends beyond familiar categories into Marie Courtin Resonance and twelve Coteaux Champenois choices; American coverage includes Floral Terranes Livingston Manor wild-apple cider, while Japan and hybrid grapes broaden the map without looking tokenistic. Cornelissen Contadino is an accessible volcanic counterpoint, and Domaine Gonon Saint-Joseph with fried skate demonstrates why the kitchen matters: fat, pepper, salt, and acid become a wine lesson. The danger is canonization. Clos Rougeard and other trophies can turn an anti-establishment list into another luxury chase, while reservation difficulty adds borrowed glamour. Let the staff choose around a grape, soil, or production question and hold the budget. The Four Horsemen remains a benchmark because curiosity survives its own success.

What should I order?

Start with a rotating glass, then choose either Thomas Batardière Amor Fatì or Jean-Christophe Garnier Bézigon as an under-$100 Loire bottle. If fried skate is available, ask whether Domaine Gonon Saint-Joseph remains the right pairing. Finish with wild-apple cider rather than a trophy red.

Who will enjoy this place?

Curious beginners, natural-wine veterans, sommeliers, and food-focused drinkers all have viable routes through the list. Conventional drinkers should describe flavors rather than reject the category. Trophy hunters can spend heavily, but they are not the audience the program rewards most.

When should I go?

Lunch or an early walk-in bar seat offers the best chance for detailed guidance. Reservations remain difficult and the late room is busy; choose quieter service when comparative tasting matters more than scene. Seasonal glass rotation makes repeat visits useful.

What should I expect to spend?

The current bottle list ranges from $39 to $990 with a $125 median. Strong choices exist around $75-$115; state a ceiling before discussing rare Loire or Champagne. Glass service offers a lower-commitment route through 20-30 changing pours.

What makes the beverage program distinctive?

Few programs combine 662 low-intervention bottles, fair markup, correct service, generous glass rotation, global discoveries, and a kitchen capable of exact pairings. The list has institutional depth without losing the exploratory habits that built its reputation.

Beverage categories

We only score what a venue sets out to do. Categories a venue doesn't attempt are left unscored rather than penalized.

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